Swim with Whale Sharks Cancun - Tour Review
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Isla Mujeres, listed under many sources across the web as one of the best places in the world to swim with whale sharks. Along Mexico’s Caribbean coast, this is one of the largest known accumulations of whale sharks. In season (June to mid-September) pods can often be spotted, in some instances over 30 whale shark encounters on a single tour. Preferring warm and open waters, Isla Mujeres is an ideal spot to encounter these gentle giants.
An experience that has been on my bucket list for years, when I realized we were visiting Cancun within the whale shark season I jumped at the opportunity for the possibility of an encounter. As an ocean and animal lover, I wanted to find an organization that has a safe and ethical approach. Not just for me but especially for the whale sharks. I dove into research trying to find the best company to go through that assured me of these practices. The company I came across boasted about their ethical practices, mentioning that there is only ever 2 swimmers from the boat and a guide with the whale shark at once, and even encouraging us to use biodegradable sunscreen prior to the tour to protect the ocean and reefs. After reading this and many positive reviews, I pressed the “book now” button. Here’s how my experience went.
Our tour was initially scheduled for a Wednesday, but with some incoming bad weather we received a phone call with the offer to receive a refund or reschedule for Thursday. Not wanting to miss a chance for this experience, we were more than happy to change our dates and were very appreciative of the good communication. Unfortunately the same situation happened for Thursday, but finally we had stroke of luck and the tour was going ahead for our last day in Cancun on Friday.
NEED ACCOMMODATION FOR YOUR STAY IN CANCUN?
We stayed at Occidental Costa Cancun – a family friendly all inclusive right near the ferry to Isla Mujeres!
At 6.30am we were up, sunscreened (as recommended by the tour operator) and ready for our pick up at 7.10am. We were promptly greeted in our hotel lobby by our very lovely and happy guide ready to take us to the marina. On the way there we were provided with some cold water and anti sea-sickness medication, as well as a brief orientation of what to expect for the day. Upon arrival a complimentary breakfast was provided which consisted of a banana, yoghurt, breakfast bun, cookies and some iced tea. With enough time to digest the food and have a final bathroom stop, it was time to head to the open seas and begin our search for the ocean’s gentlest giants.
Over an hour on the water in some very wild and rough seas, I think we were all starting to lose hope (and I know I was feeling very grateful for the anti sea-sickness medication!), when suddenly we came upon a few boats. Hope began to increase and we thought we had finally found the whale sharks. We were all scanning the ocean trying to find what these bought were here for, when I saw a flash of movement. But it wasn’t whale sharks, it was a small pod of dolphins playing in the waves! Our first sign of aquatic life had everyone feeling that excitement return, thinking that surely we would find a whale shark soon. And lo and behold, we did.
Anticipation was at its peak, and I couldn’t believe that soon I was about to have my first encounter with a whale shark. Our boat spotted the dorsal fin and pulled up alongside for us to hop in the water. As discussed prior, it was 2 swimmers to 1 guide, and lucky for us we were the first group to hop in. Sitting on the edge of the boat we were instructed to enter the water, the moment I experienced next was inexpressible. Looking ahead, I saw a large shadow heading slowly towards me. As it got closer the large form revealed a beautiful whale shark gliding through the water directly in my line of sight. Knowing I wasn’t on it’s menu (whale sharks are only interested in plankton and microscopic ocean life), I felt safe and content floating in the water staring in awe at it’s natural beauty and sheer size. I couldn’t believe how close it was! Looking over to the guide for reassurance that I wasn’t too close, I watched as this magnificent creature swum next to me, and then followed cautiously behind it watching it glide effortlessly through the water. Seconds later our moment was over and we were directed by our guide that our time was up and returned to the boat.
When back on the boat I was still feeling that high when the second group entered the water. With the moment replaying in my head, I couldn’t wait to get another chance to get back in, but then I took in my surroundings. Boat after boat after boat pulled up to our location. In every direction there was a boat carrying at least 10 people. It looked as though there were no calm or safe routes for the whale shark to swim, and I couldn’t help but imagine how distressed it must have been with this onslaught of activity. I felt immediate disappointment at what was happening, that I was now supporting an unethical practice and disturbing this incredible life form in its natural habitat. It got to a point where there were at least 40 boats (you do the math of how many people that is) that were circling 2 whale sharks, and at no surprise they both disappeared. We still had 2 more groups (5 people) that hadn’t been in the water yet, so our boat and all the others waited around hoping for the whale sharks to reappear. They didn’t.
Over half an hour waiting, time ticking, and passengers feeling sea sick, the guides made the decision to head back. Leaving 5 people without an experience at all and justifiably feeling upset and devastated. I felt guilty for having had the experience, and even though in reality it was only 2-3 minutes in the water, these people had endured torturous seas to not even have a second with the whale shark. I can’t imagine how that would have felt. Though wildlife encounters are unpredictable and are never guaranteed, the fact the opportunity was there but they weren’t first in line couldn’t have been a good feeling.
The journey back felt quiet and sad (understandably so), sandwiches were handed around but most people either couldn’t eat or didn’t want to for risk of being sick. We returned to the waters directly surrounding Isla Mujeres for an opportunity to snorkel. By this point I think everyone just wanted to get off the boat so we all jumped (literally) at the opportunity to maybe see some more underwater activity. I personally found this to be another letdown, it didn’t seem to be a good spot to see fish or anything else, and there was no regard for safety. One of the guides entered the water with a life ring, but I don’t think this did much. The water was very choppy which was creating strong waves and currents and we were very close to a cluster of a rocks. Though I am a very strong swimmer, we had no conversation about safety prior to entering the water and I did not want to be overconfident and end up injured or worse, so I made the decision to signal the boat to pick us up while others continued to snorkel. Thankfully nothing happened, but I don’t think it was worth the risk to begin with.
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After a quick 10 minute ride between the islands we were back on dry land and being transported to our hotels. As we were reminiscing on our experience I couldn’t help but feel my shoulders getting warm, and I knew at that moment I was sunburnt. Once we got back to our room I found the degree of my sunburn and I felt so frustrated that I’d let myself get this bad. Usually I am religious with reapplying sunscreen, but a couple were told off for applying sunscreen at the marina, and this made me feel uncomfortable and that I wasn’t aloud to apply any (even if it was biodegradable). Though I absolutely take full responsibility for my mistake, I just wish we had more reminders or encouragement about covering up. When we were offered wetsuits and long sleeve vests to rent I was thinking about the ocean temperature and not my exposure to the sun. Ultimately though I am a grown adult and I should have known better. Hopefully this can save someone else from making the same mistake!
Within 24 hours of the tour conclusion we received the photos and videos of our tour. Our price included a promotion to receive the content for no additional charge, so when we swum with the whale shark I decided to leave my phone out of the water and rely on the experts for footage while I lived in the moment. I was so excited to see it again, so I can’t even express the emotions I feel that a video of the vast ocean, our guides legs and fins, and a video of us swimming was all that was captured. I’m sure this sounds so selfish as I know others didn’t even get the experience at all, and I understand mistakes happen, but they set an expectation and inevitably failed to reach it. And being one of only four people in our boat that had the opportunity, I was so sure our moment was captured. I am so grateful for the experience and the memory, I just wish I could relive it again and again. But we live and we learn, and I know in future I will be bringing my phone or camera in the water with me. Thankfully there was a video of the only other couple that swam with the whale shark, so I am happy that I can at least have this, and enjoy the moment that now lives purely in my memory.
To sum up the tour — I loved the moment, but not the overall experience. I’m still grateful for it, and I’m looking forward to trying again — this time in Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef, where I’m hopeful it’ll be the experience I was searching for all along.
*I’ve chosen not to name the company out of respect for discretion. With over 40 boats on the water during our tour, I believe the experience would have been similar regardless of the operator.